Hotel Lone

It's an architecture-magazine kind of place - sweeping white curves, polished concrete, very few corners that say 'go nuts.' The outdoor pool has a graduated kids' section that genuinely works, and the forest path down to Lone Bay is paved enough for a stroller. But the lobby is a hush room, the spa is adults-only, and a loud toddler will feel very loud.

If your kids are old enough for the kids' club (4+, mornings only in summer), you actually get an hour with a coffee. Service is Croatian-cool - competent, not warm. The rooftop bar at sunset is the reward. Bring something to read because nobody is going to chat.

Family rooms exist but they're really one big room with a sofa bed in an alcove. No real door between sleeping zones, so once kids are down you're whispering. Travel cot free on request, set up in advance. Blackout blinds are excellent.

15-min walk into Rovinj old town on a paved coastal path - fully stroller-friendly and one of the trip's quiet highlights. Pula airport is 40 min by taxi (around €60). You don't need a car if you stay close to base, but renting one opens up Istria properly.

Breakfast buffet is huge, well-stocked and runs until 10.30 (a small mercy). Two on-site restaurants - one casual poolside, one ambitious tasting menu we'd skip with kids. Kids' menu exists but reads like an afterthought. For dinner most nights, walk into Rovinj - far better food, far more atmosphere.

• LunchMaestralHonest grilled fish on the waterfront, kind to messy kids.
• ActivityPunta Corrente forest parkShaded coastal walk with rocky swim spots; bring water shoes.